Natural wooden flooring
Instructions are given in order to ensure that Timberwise flooring will keep its beauty.
Please read this instruction carefully before installing the parquet. The timberwise liability for defects does not apply to products that have been installed or maintained against the instructions. Order installation instructions for design parquet email@example.com.
Product quality assurance and liability for defects
Prior to installation, inspect the floorboards in sufficient lighting or daylight for potential visible defects. Also inspect the colour and structure. The characteristics of a range, such as knots, natural grain pattern and colour variation are not defects. In order to ensure even grain pattern and colour tone distribution, we recommend that the floorboards being used are taken from different packages simultaneously. Damaged and faulty floorboards must not be used at all or they must be installed in as suitable place as possible, such as the beginning or end of a row. Each installed floorboard is considered to have been approved by the installer and/or owner. The manufacturer does not accept post-installation claims. The owner is responsible for checking for deviations in moisture and evenness and must ensure that all the requirements regarding the conditions listed in these instructions are met according to the below definitions before installation. The liability for defects only covers Timberwise floors that have been installed and maintained according to the instructions.
Installation timing and planning
The wooden floor should be installed after all other construction work is completed. In addition, you must ensure that damp materials (such as filler material) have dried sufficiently and that the conditions in the room are optimal for installing the parquet (relative humidity of air 40% – 60% and temperature +18°C – 24°C). We recommend measuring the moisture of concrete surfaces before the installation of the parquet.
A wooden floor expands or shrinks less longitudinally than widthwise, thus we recommend installing the floor along the direction of the longest wall. Complete installations in narrow spaces and corridors always longitudinally. When the installation must be completed crossways, an expansion gap of at least 10mm must be left every 6 meters, so that the floor can expand and shrink widthwise. At the same time, it must be ensured that at least every third row of floorboards is laid using extended boards. In other cases, it is recommended to lay the parquet in the line of light. If the sub-floor is an old boarded floor, the parquet floorboards are to be installed crosswise to it. When installing flooring equipped with the WiseLoc lock system, it is easiest to start near the wall that has the most doorways in the room. If one of the room’s gable walls contains door(s), start the installation near that wall. Start from the corner and install the floorboards sequentially, moving from left to right.
To account for the expansion or shrinkage of the flooring with respect to fluctuations in air humidity, the parquet must be separated from the solid parts of the building by an expansion gap of approx. 10mm in width. Solid structures include, among others, the surrounding and penetrating walls as well as the heating ducts. An expansion gap should also be left around other obstacles, such as pillars, stairs, kitchen islands, fireplaces, tile floors and thresholds as well as under doorframes. For large continuous floor areas (over 10m long or over 6m wide), the expansion gaps must be larger than mentioned above. In a room of over 6 meters in width, the expansion gap must be increased by 1.5mm per each meter exceeding 6m. The maximum size of an uniform parquet floor area without an expansion gap crosswise is 8 metres and 10 metres lengthways. Expansion gaps are covered using appropriate skirting boards. NOTE! Skirting boards should always be chosen based on the width of the expansion gap – not the other way around.
In addition, the following points concerning expansion gaps must be taken into account during installation:
- The stairs must be installed on the sub-floor so that the parquet flooring will have 10mm expansion gaps from the mounting points. Load-bearing structures of stairs (e.g. stringers or handrail supports) must never be mounted directly on the parquet!
- Fixtures or load-bearing structures such as partitions, must never be installed on the parquet floor! They lock the floor so that the floor cannot expand or shrink freely. Due to this, all fixtures (e.g. kitchen islands and cabinetry) must be fitted before the installation of the parquet. If you want to install the parquet under fixtures, the part that is left under the fixtures must be separated from the rest of the floor with an expansion gap. Under furniture legs, holes that are 20mm wider than the leg diameter must be drilled, so that the weight of the furniture is directed at the parquet’s sub-floor.
- Gluable split-level boards may only be fixed to the other surface of the floor. If an uneven skirting board is fixed between two rooms on both floor surfaces, it locks the floors together and prevents the normal expansion and shrinkage of the parquet floor. The liability for defects does not cover these cases. The T board should also always be mounted on the sub-floor, not the parquet.
- Skirting boards and thresholds must always be fixed in a way that does not prevent the parquet from expanding and shrinking normally. Do not fix the boards too tightly against the floor or a threshold through the parquet. Moulding, rails, thresholds etc. should not be screwed through the parquet so that it locks the parquet. When you are installing the parquet under doorframes, you must also ensure that it does not prevent the parquet from natural expansion and shrinkage.
- For sliding-door cabinets, the expansion gap must be made under the cabinets’ runner (10 mm) and the runner must be fixed to the parquet with short screws (12mm) from the cabinet side.
- Install each room as a separate area. Cut the floor at each doorway with an expansion gap and install thresholds or threshold skirting boards to the doorways. The floor should be installed in a square or rectangular shape. Unconventionally shaped rooms (e.g. L, T, and U shaped rooms) are installed as two or more separate floor areas separated by expansion gaps. If the parquet is installed as a floating floor, gluing the parquet to the sub-floor at doorways, in front of the fireplace or elsewhere is not allowed. In a situation where an unconventionally shaped room is combined into one flooring area, we recommend the use of traditional glue-joint products and gluing the floor to the sub-floor.
- Do not leave any pointed objects or brackets that prevent movement on the floor. The expansion gap may not be filled with cables, for example.
Sub-floor and moisture barrier
The sub-floor must be even – the allowable deviation is ±2mm per (2) metres with WiseLoc lock system products. The traditional glue groove system allows a slightly larger deviation. The levelness of the sub-floor can be checked by placing a floorboard tongue against the sub-floor and measuring the gap remaining between the sub-floor and the floorboard. Differences that exceed the allowable limit must be levelled out by grinding or applying appropriate filler material. The sub-floor must be immovable, strong, solid, straight, dry and clean. Note that even small loose dirt can cause unevenness that can wear the flooring.
All fitted carpeting and other similar soft coatings must be removed. The sub-floor material must be as inelastic as possible. Suitable sub-floors include: plywood or chipboard flooring, concrete surfaces, flagged and marble floors, linoleum and PVC. Note that an underlay material with a moisture barrier or a similar moisture barrier must always be installed on a concrete sub-floor (e.g. 0.2mm thick PE plastic, seams overlapped approx. 20cm or taped.)
The humidity of the sub-floor should be measured before installation. We recommend having the humidity of the concrete measured by a professional. Ensure that the sub-floor is dry along the whole installation area (also under any stored construction materials). To measure the sub-floor humidity yourself, attach a PE sheet of approx. 1m2 tightly to the floor by taping the edges for 24 hours. Any humidity that accumulates underneath the plastic sheet and on the surface of the sub-floor (concrete) indicates excess evaporating humidity: this means that the installation should not yet be started. Precise sub-floor humidity measurements can be obtained by using the appropriate moisture meters. If the relative humidity of the subfloor is higher than 80% (max. weight percentage 3.0), DO NOT begin installing the flooring!
The Timberwise parquet can be installed over an underfloor heating system. Underfloor heating must be distributed evenly to the entire floor area. Before installation, the sub-floor must be dried for approx. 2 weeks. Proceed as follows:
- Raise the under-floor heating temperature daily by about 5°C until at least half of the full heating capacity is utilised. Do this in the summer, too.
- After this, increase the heating to the maximum temperature for 3 days.
- Lower the heating power so that the sub-floor surface temperature decreases to 18°C. Ensure good ventilation during heating and cooling.
- Install the flooring according to the instructions.
- During the next five days, raise the temperature but make sure that the temperature of the wooden flooring never exceeds +27°C. At this stage, do not cover the floor, even partially. The relative humidity of air must be maintained between 40% and 60%. The recommended room temperature is 18°C to 24°C. Hydroscopic changes in the flooring may be exaggerated by exceptional conditions.The manufacturer, seller or installer cannot accept liability for these changes.
When installing the flooring over an underfloor heating system, the following points must be followed:
- The floor’s surface temperature must not rise above +27°C. Note that regular loose carpets raise the floor’s surface temperature by about + 2°C.
- Floor temperature must not fluctuate regularly by more than 2°C per day (night-time electricity).
- Irrespective of the sub-floor material, a moisture barrier must ALWAYS be installed with underfloor heating (e.g. 0.2mm PE plastic, seams overlapped approx. 200mm or taped) or underlay material with a moisture barrier.
- Use an expansion gap to separate floor areas that do not have underfloor heating from the heated areas.
- We recommend installing under-floor heating cables or ducts at no less than a 30mm distance from the underlay material of the Timberwise parquet.
- In wooden flooring, an air space
- In concrete floors, a filling layer
- If the under-floor heating cables or ducts are installed at a distance of less than 30 mm from the parquet underlay material, the surface temperature of the flooring must not exceed 25°C.
- Cork grain underlays are not recommended.
Store parquet in unopened packages (the room must be dry, relative humidity of air 40% to 60% and temperature +18°C- to 24 °C). For 2 to 3 days before installation, the flooring material must be kept in conditions (air humidity and temperature) that are similar to those in the room where the flooring will be installed. The packages should be stacked on a flat surface in a way that allows air circulation between them and they must be kept away from a direct source of heat (such as radiators or strong sunlight). Do not open the packages until you begin the installation. Only open as many as you need on the same day.
Ensure that the underlay material (moisture barrier and impact sound insulation material) and the tools required for the installation are ready. Always check the suitability of the moisture barrier and sound insulation material for the Timberwise parquet with your dealer.
- The underlay material cannot be too thick (<3.0mm) or made of too flexible of a material! Compression cannot exceed 25 % of the thickness of the material with a 2.4 tn/m² load (DIN53577).
- Required tools include: Metric measuring tape/ruler, marker pen, try square, fitting wedges for expansion joints, circular or crosscut saw, clamping device, wooden knocking block (for knocking floorboards into place), chisel, hammer, knife and wood glue (PVAC glue).
First calculate the number of floorboards you require. Use a metric measuring tape/ruler to measure the total width of the room; divide it by the width of a floorboard, and check how many complete rows of floorboards will be used for the room. Ensure the last row of boards is sufficiently wide (see Second floorboard, second row) Remember the expansion gaps. In order to get a floor that meets the qualities of the range, alternate the floorboards from different packages during installation.
Installation of traditional glue groove system product
Open 3 – 4 packages simultaneously, so that you can install the floorboards in the desired sequence. Each floorboard is unique.
Place the grooves of the first floorboards against the walls and glue the floorboards of the first row to each other from the end groove and tongue mechanisms only. Leave expansion gaps of approx. 10mm longitudinally from the wall.
If the wall is straight, you can place wedges between the wall and row of floorboards, once you have installed 3 rows of floorboards (Figure 2). If the wall is crooked (e.g. old homes), work the shape of the first row of floorboards, so that the installation is aligned as desired. Apply a sufficient amount of PVAC glue to the edge of the groove that is below the surface (Figure 3) and press the floorboards together. All side and end connections must be pressed tightly together. Immediately wipe the glue squeezed to the surface off using a wet cloth.
Tighten the last floorboard of the row (end connection) using a pull bar, when the glue is still elastic (Figure 4). Always start a new row of boards using the sawed off piece of the previous row. This allows you to minimise scrap waste during installation. Install the floorboards so that the connection seams of adjacent floorboards are at least 50cm apart. Using a tapping block, tap the floorboards into place with solid taps on the tongue side of the board starting from the free end of the floorboard and proceeding toward the end connection of the floorboard. This prevents gaps at the end connections of the floorboards (Figure 5). Exercise caution not to damage the surface of the floorboard when using the tapping block.
Allow the glue of the three first rows to dry for approx. 2 hours, in order to create an even start for the following rows (Figure 6). After this, install the rest of the floorboards. Saw the final row of floorboards to the required width (Figure 7). Keep in mind that the distance from the wall must be approx. 10mm. Use the pull bar to tighten the floorboards into place (Figure 8). Allow the glue to dry for 12 hours (Figure 9) prior to removing the wedges (no later than 24 hours after installation) and then install the skirting boards.
If ducts have been installed in front of the wall, a hole must be drilled into the floorboard in question. The hole should be 20mm larger in diameter than the duct, so that the floor has sufficient room for movement. First mark the point where the duct is to go through the floorboard. Then drill appropriate holes for the ducts and saw the pieces off (Figure 10). Reattach the pieces when the floorboard is in place.
Door openings and doorframes
Saw the doorframes shorter so that the parquet board to be installed can barely fit underneath it (Figure 11). Do not forget to leave an expansion gap.
Avoid installing floorboards crossways in narrow corridors, if possible. When it is unavoidable, however, reduce the ‘tension’ of the floorboard by sawing a groove through bottom grid of the board in a 45 °angle (no deeper than a 6mm cut). At least every third row of floorboards must be installed so that the boards have been extended.
Install the skirting boards into place to cover the expansion gaps. Skirting boards are attached to the wall only, not to the floor.